Quick answer: For a long-haired dog, use a pin brush for the main brush and a metal comb for the mat check. Work in sections, starting at the front legs, brushing down to the skin, then combing through. Brush 2 to 3 times a week for Cockers, Cavaliers, and Shih Tzus; daily for Afghan Hounds and Yorkies with show coats. Most mats form behind the ears, under the armpits, and around the trouser area, so check those spots every session.
The right tools for a long coat
You need two tools. One does the bulk of the work; the other catches what the first one misses.
- Pin brush for the main brush. Soft metal or plastic pins on a rubber or padded base. Picks up loose hair without scratching the skin. The right size for your dog: a Cockapoo wants a small pin brush, a Golden Retriever wants a large one.
- Metal comb (medium-toothed) for the mat check. Run it through the brush-out areas after every session to find hidden tangles.
Optional third tool: a detangler spray. A light spray on a tangle before combing reduces pulling and makes a 2-minute mat disappear instead of a 20-minute fight.
The section-by-section method
The biggest mistake is trying to brush the whole dog at once. Long coats have layers, and brushing the top layer alone leaves mats underneath. The fix is sections.
- Non-slip mat. Lay it on the floor or table. Your dog needs to feel stable; a sliding dog tenses up and the brushing becomes a fight.
- Spray lightly. A light detangler or water mist makes the hair easier to work through. Do not soak.
- Front legs. Lift each leg and brush from the shoulder down to the paw. Hold the hair at the root with one hand so you are not pulling on the skin.
- Chest and shoulders. Brush in the direction of hair growth. Then brush against it to lift the undercoat.
- Back and sides. Same approach: with the grain, then against. Use a section at a time so you can see the skin.
- Trouser area. The back legs and around the tail. This is mat-prone. Use the comb here, not just the brush.
- Behind the ears. The single most mat-prone spot on a long coat. Part the hair and brush down to the skin, layer by layer.
- Tail. Brush from the base of the tail to the tip. Hold the tail near the base to avoid pulling.
- Ears. For drop-eared breeds (Cocker, Cavalier, Basset), brush inside and outside the ear flap, including the area where the ear meets the head.
- Comb-through. Run the metal comb through every section. The comb is your mat detector.
Total time: 5 to 15 minutes depending on coat thickness and mat level.
The 3 hot spots
Most mats on a long coat form in three places. Check these every session.
- Behind the ears. Friction from the head shaking and collar movement creates tangles that tighten over time. Most common mat on a Cocker Spaniel.
- Under the armpits. Skin folds plus leg movement. Lift the leg gently to access the area.
- Trouser area (the back of the hind legs, around the tail). Friction plus moisture from grass and rain. Common on Cavaliers, Cocker Spaniels, and Setters.
If you find a mat in any of these spots, work it out with your fingers first, then a comb, then a brush. Do not cut a mat with scissors. A professional groomer uses clippers for safety.
Breed-specific notes
Cocker Spaniel. The classic mat-prone long coat. Behind the ears and the trouser area mat within a week of a missed brush. Use a pin brush for the bulk and a comb every session.
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. Long silky coat that mats less than a Cocker but tangles in the feathering on the legs and tail. Daily brushing if the feathering is long; every 2 to 3 days otherwise.
Yorkshire Terrier. Single-layer silky coat. Daily brushing if the coat is long (show coat). Every 2 to 3 days for a pet-trim Yorkie. Use a pin brush and detangler.
Shih Tzu. Dense double coat that mats fast. Daily brushing is the safe baseline. The face and eye area need a separate comb-through every day to prevent the hair matting into the eyes.
Afghan Hound. Long, fine, fast-matting coat. Daily brushing is not optional. Use a pin brush with very soft pins; the coat tangles at the slightest friction.
Common mistakes
- Brushing a dry coat. A light mist of water or detangler reduces pulling and prevents split ends.
- Brushing the top layer only. Mats form underneath. Lift sections to see the skin.
- Using a slicker on a show coat. Slickers can break the long hair. A pin brush is gentler.
- Brushing a wet coat. Wet hair stretches and breaks. Brush before the bath, not during.
- Skipping the comb. The comb is what finds the hidden mats. Use it every session.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I brush a long-haired dog?
2 to 3 times a week for most long coats (Cocker, Cavalier, Shih Tzu). Daily for Afghan Hounds and Yorkies with show coats. Skip a session and you will see more loose hair and a small increase in mat risk.
What brush is best for a long-haired dog?
A pin brush for the main brush. Pair it with a metal comb for the mat check. Skip the slicker on a show coat; the slicker can break the long hair. See our best slicker brush guide for a slicker alternative on a working pet trim.
Can I cut out a mat?
No. Cutting with scissors is dangerous. A professional groomer uses clippers to remove mats safely. At home, work the mat out with your fingers, then a metal comb, then a detangler spray. If the mat is too tight, book a groomer.
Pair brushing with our handmade dog accessories - comfortable collars that don't tangle long coats.
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